I did not make any notes in Myanmar. I was too distracted by Yangon’s charming, but often horrifying, beauty. Stains black as mould climb up every building face, a rotting legacy of struggle. In 2010, the country once known as Burma emerged from five decades of military rule. Now, it is bursting with character. On a sidewalk next to Bo Gyoke Road, a man chops samosas into a soup. Here South and East Asia meet. Who was it that told me the food in Myanmar is terrible? God only knows what they were eating. I almost don’t want to tell you that every meal was better than the next. “You should go to Shan state,” says KP, lead singer of the Burmese band Big Bag. We’re sitting at dinner in the suburbs and I’ve posed the ultimate of tourist questions — where’s the best food? On the table in front of us is a sort of elaborate hot pot, filled with sticks of questionable meat parts.
