A journey into the villages beyond Ubud in the uplands of Bali, Indonesia reveals wild landscapes, a resilient culture and two hotels tapping into their surrounds. Local writer Maya Kerthyasa ventures into the un-touristic centre of the holiday island. Ubud is the first destination for many visitors seeking authentic Bali. And while the community itself remains steeped in tradition, there’s no denying that the modern world has made its mark here in a significant way. Travel just 20 minutes north of its centre, however, and you’re immersed in a completely different vibration. There’s lush jungle, eyefuls of farmland and charming traditional villages going about life the way they have been for decades.