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BIGFORK, Mont. — I’m writing these words early in a darkened motel room, 2,460 miles from home, eight hours east of Seattle and 45 minutes south of Glacier National Park. Around me five other people are still asleep: My wife and four children, crowded onto queen-size beds, an air mattress and a pack-and-play. These have been our conditions for the last 16 nights, which we have spent claiming an important American birthright: The westward migration via minivan, the great cross-country drive.

Boonie Dog